These are the wines that hold nothing back. Richness and depth of fruit, concentration and intensity of flavor—this is what you get when you harvest grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec or Zinfandel at their ripest. The best of them balance their power with freshness and vibrancy, yielding structure as well as focus. Recent great vintages in the Southern Rhône deliver multiple examples from Grenache and Syrah, while Washington has come on strong with Cabernet, producing complex and polished versions.
92 $16 DOMINIO DE ATAUTA Ribera del Duero Torre de Golbán Crianza 2016 | Spain | A thick, polished texture carries focused black cherry, plum, dark chocolate, licorice and graphite flavors in this balanced red, with well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity. Powerful yet graceful.—T.M.